FPE 3.4 INSTALLATION  & OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

Engine Mounting:

Engine mounting should be done using 4 10-32 bolts of high quality. The bolt pattern is 3.00" horizontally by 2.500" vertically (total width and height). Draw thrust line and engine centerline on firewall, measure right and left 1.500 (1 1/2") from centerline and then 1.250 (1 1/4") up and down from thrust line. (See enclosed mounting template). The throttle can be hooked up via a Sullivan gold rod or whatever method that you prefer. (This is a spark ignition engine so if using steel push rod for throttle be sure to isolate both ends with nylon or plastic rod ends).  BE SURE TO INSTALL THE GROUND WIRE ON THE BOLT LOCATED BESIDE SPARK PLUG BEFORE IGNITION IS TURNED ON - FAILURE TO DO SO WILL BLOW OUT THE IGNITION SENSOR. (ALSO DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER WITH SPARK PLUG WIRE NOT ATTACHED). Always range check airplane with ENGINE RUNNING --PLANE MUST BE HELD IN CASE OF RADIO FAILURE- before flying plane. Keep all ignition components as far away from radio gear as possible.

 

Suggested gas/oil mix:

I have ran numerous brands of oil and recommend Bell Ray MC-1 at a 50:1 ratio or Golden Specto at a 50:1 ratio. I believe any good quality synthetic oil at the manufacturers ratio will be fine. If they give variable ratios, I recommend 50:1 ratio with high-test gas. Running oil contents with more oil than recommend can carbon engine or in the extreme case, could stick rings in piston.

 

Suggested ignition battery:

A 4.8 volt battery must be used to give ignition power. A 1400 Mah A size or 1200 Mah sub C size battery should provide at least 6 10 minute flights. As with any other ni-cad battery, check battery voltage between flights to be safe.

 

Suggested propellers:

            Menz S 22x10

            Bolly 22x10

            Bolly 23x10

            NX 22x10

            NX 23x10

            Mejzlik 22x10

            Mejzlik 22x12

            Biela 22x10

-If selecting other sizes or brands, the recommended maximum RPM on ground should be between 6500 and 7300 rpm.

 Prop bolt is 5/16 x 24 and is removable if damaged.

 

Engine starting tips:

            Turn choke to a fully closed position.

            Turn on ignition.

            Set throttle to full open position.

            **(BE SURE THE PLANE IS HELD SECURELY AND USE A HEAVY GLOVE FOR SAFETY REASONS)**

            Flip propeller until engine starts. (Engine will start and run only a few seconds with the choke on)

            After engine quits, turn choke off and return engine throttle to IDLE position.

            Flip engine until start (usually 2-4 flips).

            Let engine idle for short time if engine is cold.

 Tuning tips:

Initial needle settings are 1 3/4 both Low and High. (Turns out from seat)

After engine has warmed up:

If engine stutters when going from idle to full speed it is lean on Low-end needle. Turn out low-end needle until a smooth transition is achieved.

High-end setting can be best found by starting at a rich setting (engine is rich when running rough at full throttle - a lean setting will either quit or lose RPM). Lean high-end needle until the popping or roughness stops. (For initial flight a slightly rich setting is better than a lean setting, a rich setting will usually just run slightly rough, but a lean setting will stall engine).

 

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Engine won't start:

Make sure carb has fuel

Make sure battery for ignition is charged

Make sure engine has spark (If testing spark make sure the plug is grounded to engine before turning on ignition or turning over engine. IF PLUG IS NOT GROUNDED IT WILL BLOW  IGNITION PICKUP SENSOR).

If engine has been running well up to this point don't adjust needle settings, gas engines normally

Do not change tuning. Check for dirt in filter, or in carb screen.

 

Engine runs fine on ground but quits or runs rough in air:

First if velocity stack is directly in the airflow, then you may try changing to an angle cut velocity stack that is cut to force air into the carb. The bell shaped stack may be creating a vacuum in the carb and causing the engine to go rich. Also if the engine quits in air shortly after takeoff, there could be air affecting the atmospheric vent on carb. This is the hole in center of sheet metal plate located on back of carb. The diaphragm is under this plate and it activates the needle valve to let gas through the carb. With it on the back of carb I have not heard of this problem, but it is possible. Unfortunately the cure may be different for each plane. On other engines with this plate on front of carb (facing air stream) the cures have been soldering hollow brass tube on hole and pointing away from air stream, or putting a hose (like gas fuel line on the brass tube) and routing back in cowling or possibly into fuse. I have also seen a tube soldered on and brought out flush with velocity stack. If you solder the brass tube onto plate, plate MUST BE TAKEN OFF of carb to avoid burning the diaphragm.

 

If engine runs fine on ground but breaks up in air:

This could be one of two problems:

1. High speed needle could be slightly rich, adjust needle in very small

Amount i.e. 1/8 turn and fly again. If no change try another 1/8 turn ECT. If no change you might want to try step 2 before more tuning.

2. Ignition timing too far advanced. To reset engine timing, loosen two bolts holding the sensor mount and rotate slightly (approx. 1/16") in the direction of engine rotation to retard the timing. (1/16" = approx. 3 1/2 degrees of timing)

SERVICE & REPAIR	TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
FIRST PLACE ENGINES	SIG MANUFACTURING CO., INC.
209 Conneaut Lake Road	401-7 South Front St.
Greenville, PA 16125	Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
Telephone:  (724) 588-9559	Telephone:  (641)623-5154
Fax:               (724) 588-9550	Fax:               (641)623-3922
e-mail:          kurt@fpengines.com	e-mail:             mail@sigmfg.com