FPE 4.2 INSTALLATION  & OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

Engine Mounting:

Engine mounting should be done using 6 10-32 bolts of high quality. The easiest method for a proper alignment is mounting the two outside middle bolts first. The bolts are on the thrust line and exactly 2.0" out from centerline to right and left. (See enclosed mounting template). After mounting two center bolts then the other 4 can be marked and drilled. The throttle can be hooked up via a Sullivan gold rod or whatever method that you prefer. (This is a spark ignition engine so if using steel push rod for the throttle, be sure to isolate both ends with nylon or plastic rod ends). Mount ignition system on firewall or inside plane with some foam to reduce vibration. BE SURE TO INSTALL THE GROUND WIRE ON AN ENGINE MOUNTING BOLT BEFORE IGNITION IS TURNED ON - FAILURE TO DO SO WILL BLOW OUT THE IGNITION SENSOR. (ALSO DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER WITH SPARK PLUG WIRE NOT ATTACHED). I prefer to mount the ignition module and ignition battery on outside of firewall if room permits.

Suggested gas/oil mix:

I have ran numerous brands of oil and recommend Bell Ray MC-1 at a 50:1 ratio or Golden Spectro at a 50:1 ratio. I believe any good quality synthetic oil at the manufacturers ratio will be fine. If they give variable ratios, I recommend 50:1 ratio with high-test gas. Running oil contents with more oil than recommend can carbon engine or in the extreme case, could stick rings in piston.

Suggested ignition battery:

A 4.8-volt battery must be used to give ignition power. A 1400 Mah A size or 1200 Mah sub C size battery should provide at least 6 10 minute flights. As with any other ni-cad battery, check battery voltage between flights to be safe.

Suggested propellers:

            Menz Standard 24x10

            Menz Ultra 24x10

            Mejzlik 24x10

            Bolly 24x10

            Zinger 24x10

If selecting other sizes or brands, the recommended maximum RPM on ground should be between 6200 and 6700 rpm.

Prop bolt is 5/16 x 24 and is removable if damaged.

Engine break-in suggestions:

Install engine in plane and use the propeller that will be your normal size.

Tune engine as normal, or just SLIGHTLY rich, and fly 3 or 4 flights without doing aerobatics. Vary the throttle settings while flying. We believe this will allow engine to obtain operating temp and rpm without overloading engine or running in a lean condition. You may run about 5 gallons of petroleum based ash-less oil for break-in if you would like.

Engine starting tips:

Turn choke to a fully closed position.

Turn on ignition.

Set throttle to full open position.

****BE SURE THE PLANE IS HELD SECURELY AND USE A HEAVY GLOVE FOR SAFETY REASONS)*****

Flip propeller until engine starts. (Engine will start and run only a few seconds with the choke on)

After engine quits, turn choke off and return engine throttle to IDLE position.

Flip engine until start (usually 2-4 flips).

Let engine idle for short time if engine is cold.

 Tuning tips:

Initial settings on carb are 1 1/2 Low and 1 3/4 High. (Turns out from seat)

After engine has warmed up:

If engine stutters when going from idle to full speed it is lean on Low-end needle. Turn out low-end needle until a smooth transition is achieved,

High-end setting can be best found by starting at a rich setting (engine is rich when running rough at full throttle - a lean setting will either quit or lose RPM). Lean high-end needle until the popping or roughness stops. (For initial flight a slightly rich setting is better than a lean setting, a rich setting will usually just run slightly rough, but a lean setting will stall engine).

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Engine won't start:

Make sure carb has fuel

Make sure battery for ignition is charged

Make sure engine has spark (If testing spark make sure the plug is grounded to engine before turning on ignition or turning over engine.  IF PLUG IS NOT GROUNDED IT WILL BLOW IGNITION SENSOR). If engine has been running well up to this point don't adjust needle settings,        gas engines normally do not change tuning. Check for dirt in filter, or in carb screen. 

Engine runs fine on ground but quits or runs rough in air:

If engine quits in air shortly after takeoff, there could be air affecting the atmospheric vent on carb. This is the hole in center of sheet metal plate located on back of carb. The diaphragm is under this plate and it activates the needle valve to let gas through the carb. With it on the back of carb it isn't a common problem, but it is possible. Unfortunately the cure may be different for each plane. Try the following: Soldering hollow brass tube on hole and pointing away from air stream, or putting a hose (like gas fuel line on the brass tube) and routing back in cowling or possibly into fuse. I have also seen a tube soldered on and brought out flush with velocity stack. If you solder the brass tube onto plate, plate MUST BE TAKEN OFF of carb to avoid burning the diaphragm.

If engine runs fine on ground but breaks up in air:

This could be one of two problems:

1. High speed needle could be slightly rich, adjust needle in very small

Amount i.e. 1/8 turn and fly again. If no change try another 1/8 turn ECT. If no change you might want to try step 2 before more tuning.

2. Ignition timing too far advanced. To reset engine timing, loosen two bolts holding the sensor mount and rotate slightly (approx. 1/16") in the direction of engine rotation to retard the timing. (1/16" = approx. 3 1/2 degrees of timing)

SERVICE & REPAIR	TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
FIRST PLACE ENGINES	SIG MANUFACTURING CO., INC.
209 Conneaut Lake Road	401-7 South Front St.
Greenville, PA 16125	Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
Telephone:  (724) 588-9559	Telephone:  (641)623-5154
Fax:               (724) 588-9550	Fax:               (641)623-3922
e-mail:          kurt@fpengines.com	e-mail:             mail@sigmfg.com